laminate edging for kitchen worktop

message from MattP on 13 May 2004

Hello all.

Have a question which I'm sure's been covered before, but I couldn't find
any specific reference to it.

1. How do you 'stick' the laminate edging to the worktop edge

2. There's a slight overhang and I was going to cut it using my 1/2" router
with flush trim bit (with bearing). How would you position the worktop to
stop it chipping the normal worktop surface?

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

Matt

Set Square replied to MattP on 13 May 2004

Assuming the edging is not self-adhesive, or iron-on (as some is), use an
impact adhesive which allows a small amount of position adjustment prior to
grabbing. [Probably has "thixotropic" or somesuch in its description]

For removing the surplus, I always use a small Surform - the sort with a
1.5" curved blade and a handle. *Pull* it along the protruding edging at a
slight angle to the horizontal (so as not to mark the top surface of the
worktop) until almost flush, and finish off with a file - again at a slight
angle, with the strokes going inwards over the edging.

John Smith replied to MattP on 13 May 2004

I achieved a very good result by doing the following:

1. I glued on the edging using impact adhesive. I think it was Evostick
timebond. Should be called Evilstick because as soon as the tin was
opened I got a instant migraine!

2. Once dry I scored the back of the overlap (therefore the worktop
side) of the edging strip with a Stanley knife. Then I simply bent the
strip over towards the worktop and it snapped producing a very clean
line. For where it overhangs the bull nose I shaped the edging with a
file, take it slowly and carefully. One point to note is that if you
score right through the edging with the Stanley knife it has a habit of
chipping.

Very please with the results but couldn't believe how much effort I had
to put in just for edging strips!

John

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