Views on Solid Walls?

message from Aiden on 25 May 2004

Have just been dissappointed by the results of a full structural
survey (by an MIStructE !) on a 1930's "cottage", that we've been
seriously keen to buy. It seems that it has solid 9" walls - no
cavity. Are there any other ways, apart from dry-lining, of seriously
tackling the problems of insulation, damp, condensation, coldness
etc.that I always associate with structures like this? Are solid walls
normal on a house of this age - even our current early 1900s one has
cavities? Appreciate any replies - we're on the point of chucking it
in and re-visiting "Rightmove" - ahhhhh! :-}

Neil Jones replied to Aiden on 25 May 2004

My house (mainly) has solid walls and while they are inefficient in
terms on insulation, they are not damp, and we don't have problems with
condensation or coldness either. If you search through google there was
a thread a while ago where I calculated the heat loss for my whole house
(complete with mistake when accounting for heat gained by upstairs from
downstairs).

If you can accommodate some cellotex or kingspan in this cottage (ie if
the rooms are big enough for you to sacrifice 25-50mm on each external
wall) then dry lining before you move in would not be terribly expensive
and you'll probably be redecorating anyway.

If the building is or could be rendered externally then you can add the
insulation outside instead.

Neil

Aiden replied to Neil Jones on 25 May 2004

<snip>
Thanks for that Neil - will look into the Cellotax/Kingspan suggestion
- the insulating of the render is also a possibility - it is already
rendered, which we'll most likely need to renew anyway. Do you know
what can be done regarding the insulation in respect of the render?
P.S. You've cheered "her" up already, thanks! :-}}

IMM replied to Aiden on 25 May 2004

Or both sides of the walls to really make it cosy and cheap to run.

There is some insulation that can be rendered directly.

Neil Jones replied to Aiden on 25 May 2004

It's not relevant for my house so I didn't investigate too much, but the
cellotex and/or kingspan websites both give case studies where
presumably one sticks their respective product to the bare walls and
renders over.

Neil

Neil Jones replied to Neil Jones on 25 May 2004

Actually, I'm really pleased you posted this because I've just had a
look at the celotex (my spelling was incorrect before) websire and it
appears that it *is* relevant to me - upstairs at least:-

"Celotex insulation can be fixed to the external face of a masonry
before applying a reinforced external render or shiplab boarding or tile
hanging. This technique allows wall insulation to be improved with
minimal increase in wall thickness. Any cavity created between the
insulation and the external wall finish benefits from the Class 1
surface spread of flame, as well al[sic] low surface emissivity."

Further into the website:-

"1. Prior to the installation of the tuff-R™ Zero boards the substrate
must be checked for soundness.

2. Large uneven projections should be removed and all holes filled and
leveled. Loose material should be cleaned off to leave a sound dry
surface.

3. Downpipes should be temporarily removed and if necessary relocated
after completion of installation. Lengthening of over flow pipes should
be allowed for, together with extensions to sills.

4. A starter strip/drip should be located at least one half brick above
the DPC, and fixed directly to the substrate with plugs and screws.

5. Celotex tuff-R™ Zero GA3000Z should be fixed to the substrate using
proprietary fasteners which are generally driven into pre-drilled holes.

6. All insulation board joints should be tightly butted and staggered.

7. Apply preservative treated timber battens vertically over the face of
the tuff-R™ Zero insulation boards, secured back to the underlying
masonry.

8. Fix a breather membrane horizontally with minimum 100 mm laps to the
surface of the battens.

Render Finish
Fix stainless steel expanded metal lathing to the battens.

Proprietary systems are available with reinforced ribs to allow for a
full span of 600 mm between battens.

Sand and cement render should be applied in three coats.

Tile hanging
Tilting fillets should be applied at horizontal functions to suit design
requirements.

Fix tile battens to vertical battens to suit tile gauge.

Apply vertical DPCs at all junctions and hang tile in accordance with
manufacturer’s instructions.

Other cladding
Timber or other lightweight cladding systems can be fixed to the
vertical battens."

I might be able to do something like this for my house since the first
floor is tile-hung.

Regards

Neil

Grunff replied to Aiden on 25 May 2004

We have 18" solid walls on our 1930s house, and no
cold/damp/condensation problems (there were lots when we bought the
place, but pretty much sorted now). The key is adequate heating and
ventilation. Vents in every room and well designed CH.

the q replied to Aiden on 25 May 2004

1930's is late -ish for no cavity wall
As an example
We have a 1906 house with 9 inch walls (40 foot frontage) with the north sea
a half a mile away with no obstructions between us and the sea.
we use 1 ton of coal each winter approx 60 pounds, and a monthly averaged
LPG central heating + water heating bill of 40 pounds( though we've just had
an increase on that).
our foundations are of the " gradually getting wider brick wall type and not
very deep" and the winter water table is only a couple of feet down.
dampness none
condensation none
coldness yes well it can be especially with a North easterly gale. just
stoke up the stove I've fitted!
but we have only 2 neighbours (and one of them 100 yards away)
wonderful views from the 1.5 acre garden
a short walk to an practically unused beach
and only a three miles from the Norfolk broads.
we Aint't moving

Insulation we've double glazed,
The roof has now got over a foot of rock wool (was less than 2 inches)
Due to internal fancy mouldings and small rooms we are intending shortly to
go for the celotex or similar covered by mesh and render as described in
another reply.

The Q

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