Kitchen splashback

message from Richard Savage on 15 May 2004

Does anyone have experience or opinions regarding stainless steel
splashbacks?

The new (900mm wide) gas hob is to be located close to a corner and I
wondered about fitting a stainless steel splashback behind and to one side.

Because I want the side panel to reach the front edge of the work top,
the back panel to cover the space between the corner and a window the
metal will have to be ordered to size.

In view if this I would welcome suggestions about:

[1] thickness of stainless steel

[2] whether I should use a single sheet with a fold for the corner

[3] or two sheets and if so how do I seal the corner junction,

[4] should I fix it so that goes behind the work top or sits on top

[5] and how should I fix it to the wall?

- Not much to ask, really - !!

BTW it would reach up as high as the extractor hood.

TIA Richard

Jim White replied to Richard Savage on 15 May 2004

Do you mean to do the work yourself?
If so, then I would forget using a single sheet, get your local s/s sheet
supplier top cut to shape for you and have a join in the corner.
this is sealed with a piece of angle with a specialised compound.
I can't figure out the work top bit.
If the cladding is behind the stove, then run it down as far as you can
afford. (This stuff is *really* expensive!)
Remember that you need to be able to pull the stove out to clean the grease
off.
If it's over a work-top, you don't need s/s, unless for aesthetic reasons.
Tiling, or if in a commercial environment, like mine, plastic cladding is
easier to clean and a hell of a lot cheaper.
either way, run it down to the worktop and seal with a compound.
This will need replacing occasionally just to keep it looking nice.
I wouldn't worry about the thickness, I think you just want it as thin as
they make it.
If you're in the South West, I can give you the number of a *really*
reasonable and experienced supplier.

HTH
Jim

"Richard Savage" <no@use.net> wrote in message
news:40A5E18F.4080602@use.net...

Richard Savage replied to Jim White on 15 May 2004

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Hi Jim

Jim White wrote:

Not do the work, just obtain the materials for the installer to use.

Is the joining piece on the inside or outside of the corner?

Sorry, work surface with 900 mm wide hob set into the top.

Yep, aesthetic reasons!

I really dislike tiling. What is the plastic cladding?

Sorry (again) but I'm in the South East. Regarding prices; the supplier
that I have in mind offered to a build a stainless steel sink to fit an
awkward space for £100 which I didn't think excessive.

Rgds Richard

Richard Savage replied to Richard Savage on 15 May 2004

S G E Engineering, Seal, near Sevenoaks in Kent. I can find an address
if you wish.

My sink was to be IIRC 300 mm (front to back and top to bottom) and
about 400 mm wide No draining board or anything fancy, just a box
without a lid made from SS with a hole to take a bottle trap.

HTH

Richard

Richard Savage replied to Richard Savage on 15 May 2004

That's them. I'm impressed that they have a web site, so will you be if
you visit! (I couldn't access it either). Not sure what it would show,
apart from milking parlour stuff, electric fences, gates and the like.

Phone number is 01732 761 724. They close at 12-ish on a Saturday.

BOL Richard

dave @ stejonda replied to Jim White on 15 May 2004

please, which supplier is that?

dave @ stejonda replied to Jim White on 15 May 2004

Ok thanks - in Church Street. Perhaps have a www site at www.sge.co.uk
but I seem to be 'Forbidden' to view it at the moment.

Rob replied to Richard Savage on 16 May 2004

I have a stainless steel splashback that I had cut and bent by the supplier.

In answer to your questions:

1) Doesn't need to be thick (will take no pressure as all will be attached
flat to the wall).
2) Folded (then no need to worry about the join)
3) See 2)
4) Do you mean as it comes down the wall? After discussions with the
supplier I have a fold at the bottom of mine, which leaves a lip which sits
on the worktop. This catches any splashes/ spills and allows for easy
clean-up.
5) Mine is fixed with Silicon Sealant. It has been up since October and
hasn't moved.

Another note: keep it clean with WD40 (lightly) sprayed on and wiped with a
kitchen cloth.

Hope this helps.

Rob

Richard Savage replied to Rob on 15 May 2004

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Rob wrote:

How square is your corner? Is the SS sheet thin enough to accomodate a
corner that is not the same angle as the fold?

Yes

How do the lips meet at the bottom of the corner?

Very helpful.

Thanks

Richard

Rob replied to Richard Savage on 16 May 2004

<Cut>
How square is your corner? Is the SS sheet thin enough to accomodate a
corner that is not the same angle as the fold?

Why don't you measure the angle of the corner (and location on the total
length of splashback) and have the company bend it to match (that's what I
did)

<Cut>
How do the lips meet at the bottom of the corner?

There is a cut-out matching the angle of the fold (ie the bottom lip is
folded before the wall fold and a triangle cut out at the point of the wall
fold
then when the wall fold was made the bottom lip joins up).

Another point is that the bottom lip was folded at an angle of 95 degrees so
that the front edge is forced onto the worktop and was bedded in (clear)
silicon sealant creating a very nice (and waterproof) match-up between the
slashback and the worksurface. The join on the lip in the corner has
silicon sealant under it as well.

Rob

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